Camino De Santiago: Days 31 -33 - Las Herrerias to Fonfria to Sarria to Portomarin

November 22, 2016 in Camino de Santiago, Travel

A beautiful but long, steep walk up to O'Cebreiro.

The absolute best thing to eat in the quaint town of O'Cebreiro-- a big bowl of caldo gallego and rustic bread (and caffeine of course)

The Monumento do Peregrino looks out over the sweeping Galician view on the Alto San Roque.

Descending from tiny Fonfria in the early morning reveals mountain tops emerging from clouds like islands.

Breathtaking light filters in serene valleys outside of Triacastela.

Galician guard dog. Or maybe he's just sunning himself.

Leaving Sarria with lots of new faces who have arrived to walk the last 100 kilometers to Santiago.

picturesque country roads on the walk to Portomarin.

The little Galician Camino mascot. He looks like a Miro inspired peregrino

the reliable yellow arrow leads the way.

The fortress and Church Igrexa de San Juan. (in the Galician dialect Igrexa = Iglesia)

Camino de Santiago: Days 28-30 - Rabanal del Camino to Reigo de Ambros to Cacabelos to Las Herrerias

November 14, 2016 in Camino de Santiago, Travel

Leaving Rabanal to climb to the Camino's highest point at La Cruz de Ferro.

Cruz de Ferro where pilgrims leave a stone from home, also symbolically leaving behind a burden they have carried

Stopping for the evening in the tiny town of Reigo.

My camera is so dirty, I now have a nice Glamor Shots soft focus going on as we leave, climbing down from Reigo in the dark for nearly an hour before the valley began to fill with early morning light.

The very pretty town of Molinaseca still hasn't woken up when I'm passing through.

Yelling at this insane cat to go back inside made no difference in Ponferrada

The 12 C Knight's Templar castle in Ponferrada.

Plenty of grapes to harvest in the Bierzo wine region. This is just outside Cacabelos, where I was so tired for once I didn't not explore after arriving at the albergue.

Gorgeous morning's walk into Villafranca del Bierzo

Some interesting blue trees at the start of a long walk adjacent the highway leading deeper into the Valcare river valley.

TheValcarce river vallye is dotted with sleepy hamlets. Each one quaint and beautiful, like Vega de Valcarce

Lovely little Las Herrerias where we stayed in a cozy hostel with a delicious dinner.  A restful stop before a steep climb to cross over into Galicia.  I hope I can return to the Valcarce River valley some day. For me, it was one of the pr… — Lovely little Las Herrerias where we stayed in a cozy hostel with a delicious dinner. A restful stop before a steep climb to cross over into Galicia. I hope I can return to the Valcarce River valley some day. For me, it was one of the prettiest areas of the Camino.

Camino de Santiago - Day 24 Lovely Leon

October 31, 2016 in Camino de Santiago, Travel

I really liked Leon and almost immediately upon leaving knew I'd have to return someday. It felt strange to me to look forward to a bigger city after the small towns of the Meseta and yet only have a few hours there to look around. I had a conversation with a woman I walked with almost every day from Astorga on--Natalie from Denmark, about how hard it can be to turn off tourist mode in your brain and just accept pilgrimage mode. In other words, it's in my nature to want to see everything I can--always on the look out for interesting little museums, wanting to see the historic buildings and wander the streets, reading up on the history or the famous foods of the area. Instead, on this journey, you are always simply passing through. The physical path of the Camino is what you get to know so well and you have to learn to ease your grip on all these interesting places you pass through.

Always on the look out for interesting signage - usually easy to spot on the approach into a big city like Leon. For me the walk into Leon didn't seem as drawn out as Burgos. Halfway through the Camino and the idea of needing solitude to think and b… — Always on the look out for interesting signage - usually easy to spot on the approach into a big city like Leon. For me the walk into Leon didn't seem as drawn out as Burgos. Halfway through the Camino and the idea of needing solitude to think and be "present" is much less appealing than good company and conversation to pass the miles.

Just the type of odd city scene I like to paint!

On a Saturday in Leon it seems that there are dozens of weddings and almost as many festivals occurring.

What is happening?! A collision of two festivals results in an impromptu street waltz.

The cathedral closed early and I was so sorry to have missed it, but now I have an extra reason to return to lovely Leon.

The "wet district" is quiet right before tapas hour chimes.

The camino provides...because I visited S. Isidoro, I was provided with a very nice Scottish couple who I'd seen often and they invited me for tapas.  First, I spied on the pilgrim mass which was ending as I arrived.  Each place does it a … — The camino provides...because I visited S. Isidoro, I was provided with a very nice Scottish couple who I'd seen often and they invited me for tapas. First, I spied on the pilgrim mass which was ending as I arrived. Each place does it a little differently, but at the end of mass, the priest invites the pilgrims to stand or approach and offers a blessing. Here, he's also giving a history of the Church as well. My favorite pilgrim's mass was in Estella, where the priest seemed to speak every pilgrim's language and had a holy card for each of us.

As a kid, I used to pray for myself all the time: "Dear God, please give me magic powers." "Dear God, please help me pass my test. I promise I'll pay attention in Church from now on."  I've fallen out of the habit of praying altogether, but on … — As a kid, I used to pray for myself all the time: "Dear God, please give me magic powers." "Dear God, please help me pass my test. I promise I'll pay attention in Church from now on." I've fallen out of the habit of praying altogether, but on the Camino pretty much every holy icon got an earful: "Please God, bless my feet. Please God, direct me to a pharmacy so I can get more Compeed. Please God, keep my foot from breaking. I don't have great insurance anymore and can't afford a podiatrist." Happy to report God listened and my feet are on the mend!