El Camino

Camino Thoughts plus Days 20 - 23 - Villamentero De Campos to Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun to Reliegos

Well, my app didn't end up working so well and, as it happened, I got more wrapped up in the walk as it went on, which is a good thing. During the second half of the walk , things began to click for me, despite the fact that my body was ready to reach its destination and began to voice big, loud complaints via my right foot and ankle.  All my wretched limbs held together though and I hobbled into Santiago with friends on October 7 after 35 days of walking.  I'm home now and just beginning to wrap my head around the experience.  Did I dream the whole thing? 

I'm sprucing up my sketchbook which I will post, along with some more thoughts on the Camino and some practical things I learned.  Despite years of researching this trip, there were still things I hadn't thought out that would've helped me before I left. It just goes to show that each person's Camino is a different animal and despite that, we all have a shared journey.  It was a horrible and wonderful trip and that's the only way I can think to describe it.  Just like a month and a half of real life, there are good and bad and many in between days.  I have to imagine that each is valuable, even if I can't see it yet.

This week, though, I will continue to share some images from the 2nd half of The Way.

Carrion de los Condes, passing through the main square before a very long walk through the Meseta

Carrion de los Condes, passing through the main square before a very long walk through the Meseta

Plenty of food and water...16 k until my stopping point.

Plenty of food and water...16 k until my stopping point.

The town of Calzadilla de la Cueza and the sign for its municipal albergue seemed to rise from the grass like an oasis. It's a two albergue town and not much else, and in my haste to take off my shoes I managed to pick the albergue WITHOUT the pool.   Plenty of time to think here...this cafe and the view of pilgrims coming over the hill is the only thing to do in this town.

The town of Calzadilla de la Cueza and the sign for its municipal albergue seemed to rise from the grass like an oasis. It's a two albergue town and not much else, and in my haste to take off my shoes I managed to pick the albergue WITHOUT the pool. 

Plenty of time to think here...this cafe and the view of pilgrims coming over the hill is the only thing to do in this town.

A perfect color palette.

A perfect color palette.

I love these little Spanish buildings. I want to live in every single one.

I love these little Spanish buildings. I want to live in every single one.

Not Hobbit Houses!, a sign helpfully explained to passing pilgrims.  These little cave cottages are for storing wine.

Not Hobbit Houses!, a sign helpfully explained to passing pilgrims.  These little cave cottages are for storing wine.

I know it looks cute but its cat talons are sharpened and waiting to rip food from pilgrim hands.  This cat ferociously guards Elvis Bar, which is the epicenter of tiny Reliegos, as well as acting as a graffiti-ed notice board for those passing through.

I know it looks cute but its cat talons are sharpened and waiting to rip food from pilgrim hands.  This cat ferociously guards Elvis Bar, which is the epicenter of tiny Reliegos, as well as acting as a graffiti-ed notice board for those passing through.

Days 6 and 7 - Uterga to Lorca and a rest day in Estella

I am suffering from muchas ampollas. After a hard hot days walk with a lot of pain I stopped in the tiny village of Lorca for the night then hobbled a couple hours the next morning to lovely Estella where I booked a room all to myself for rest and foot care. It's been beautiful scenery though and very nice people around every bend in the road. 

Early morning hang gliders (?) outside Uterga

Early morning hang gliders (?) outside Uterga

always grateful to see an obvious Camino sign to guide the way  

always grateful to see an obvious Camino sign to guide the way  

Walking through Puente La Reins

Walking through Puente La Reins

The queen's bridge, built in the 11th C to help pilgrims across the deep river

The queen's bridge, built in the 11th C to help pilgrims across the deep river

Walking through vineyards and Oliver groves today

Walking through vineyards and Oliver groves today

The pretty and very unbaked hill town of Cirauqui

The pretty and very unbaked hill town of Cirauqui

The Roman road remains along this not of the Camino  

The Roman road remains along this not of the Camino  

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This morning I made it to Estella, a short day so I can rest my feet.  I e made it about 71 miles. 411 to go! Estella is small but ver picturesque. Perfect place for a break.  

 

Out of Lorca, bypassed by a dog on a donkey   

Out of Lorca, bypassed by a dog on a donkey   

But I caught up. Note the shell on the donkey... They are in pilgrimage too! 

But I caught up. Note the shell on the donkey... They are in pilgrimage too! 

10th C ermita de San Miguel Arcángel .... Hermitage and pilgrim hospital

10th C ermita de San Miguel Arcángel .... Hermitage and pilgrim hospital

Arrived in Estella to find a farmers market outside my door.... Cooking in tonight

Arrived in Estella to find a farmers market outside my door.... Cooking in tonight

Rio Ega

Rio Ega

Cafe chairs in Plaza Fueros

Cafe chairs in Plaza Fueros

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Camino markers and Camino feet

Camino markers and Camino feet

Self care

Self care

Day 4 and 5 - Zubiri to Pamplona to Uterga

Two rough days with blisters beginning to develop but the pain was dulled by the beautiful Navarra region.  

Started in St Jean with 482 miles to walk to Santiago. At the end of day five I have 429.5 to go

 

Puente de la Rabia leaving Zubiri

Puente de la Rabia leaving Zubiri

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Tortilla, orange soda sand new friend at Zuriáin cafe

Tortilla, orange soda sand new friend at Zuriáin cafe

The alterpiece at Iglesia de San Esteban

The alterpiece at Iglesia de San Esteban

Hemingway hideout on the back of Cafe Irunia in Pamplona

Hemingway hideout on the back of Cafe Irunia in Pamplona

day five, free of the city and headed over that hill. Hot and dry  

day five, free of the city and headed over that hill. Hot and dry  

Beautiful skies

Beautiful skies

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Made it to the top! Alto del Perdón and the monuments peregrino  

Made it to the top! Alto del Perdón and the monuments peregrino  

The long hot walk down to Uterga, my end point for today

The long hot walk down to Uterga, my end point for today

Relaxing in Casa Baztán, a relaxing little albergue  

Relaxing in Casa Baztán, a relaxing little albergue  

Day 3 - Roncesvalles to Zubiri

A long long day owing to sore muscles and fatigue from the last couple days. But a beautiful real through woods and farmland at dawn, passing through Burguete, one of Hemingway's favorite towns.  

 

Lessons learned from from the  long hot walk into Zubiri in the afternoon:

take shoes and socks off at least once during the walk; use every font to refill water bottles; lots of snacks especially when you start to zone out during the last five km.  

Papa was here... Burguete  

Papa was here... Burguete  

Basque style

Basque style

Looking back

Looking back

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Zubiri cafe

Zubiri cafe