Big sky and empty roads leaving Portomarin in the early morning.  This empty highway photo is deceptive--the road might be empty but the Camino is jam packed with pilgrims this morning! — Big sky and empty roads leaving Portomarin in the early morning. This empty highway photo is deceptive--the road might be empty but the Camino is jam packed with pilgrims this morning!

Camino de Santiago - Days 34-36: Portomarin to Palas de Rei to Ribadiso to Pedrouzo

November 29, 2016 in Camino de Santiago, Travel

So many small farming towns along the Camino through Galicia.  The smell of manure is eye-watering and astringentand the weather is moody. — So many small farming towns along the Camino through Galicia. The smell of manure is eye-watering and astringentand the weather is moody.

Peregrinos on horseback scrounging for some food.

The last 100 k makes for a very crowded camino.  It's a different experience than the first 600 kilometers and it requires an attitude adjustment.  Galicia is so beautiful in my opinion, though, it makes the shock of sharing the way a litt… — The last 100 k makes for a very crowded camino. It's a different experience than the first 600 kilometers and it requires an attitude adjustment. Galicia is so beautiful in my opinion, though, it makes the shock of sharing the way a little gentler. I tend to always be trailing behind Mike.

Unpredictable weather = empty cafe chairs.

Romanesque era Santa Maria de Melide XII Century with some Visigoth era treasure.

Misty morning leaving Ribadiso, which was tiny and quaint though I was tired and cranky the night we crashed there in my least favorite hostel of the walk run by a mad woman who adored Mike.

Is this view where I came from or where I'm headed? In retrospect I just can't tell.

Camino De Santiago: Days 31 -33 - Las Herrerias to Fonfria to Sarria to Portomarin

November 22, 2016 in Camino de Santiago, Travel

A beautiful but long, steep walk up to O'Cebreiro.

The absolute best thing to eat in the quaint town of O'Cebreiro-- a big bowl of caldo gallego and rustic bread (and caffeine of course)

The Monumento do Peregrino looks out over the sweeping Galician view on the Alto San Roque.

Descending from tiny Fonfria in the early morning reveals mountain tops emerging from clouds like islands.

Breathtaking light filters in serene valleys outside of Triacastela.

Galician guard dog. Or maybe he's just sunning himself.

Leaving Sarria with lots of new faces who have arrived to walk the last 100 kilometers to Santiago.

picturesque country roads on the walk to Portomarin.

The little Galician Camino mascot. He looks like a Miro inspired peregrino

the reliable yellow arrow leads the way.

The fortress and Church Igrexa de San Juan. (in the Galician dialect Igrexa = Iglesia)

Camino de Santiago: Days 28-30 - Rabanal del Camino to Reigo de Ambros to Cacabelos to Las Herrerias

November 14, 2016 in Camino de Santiago, Travel

Leaving Rabanal to climb to the Camino's highest point at La Cruz de Ferro.

Cruz de Ferro where pilgrims leave a stone from home, also symbolically leaving behind a burden they have carried

Stopping for the evening in the tiny town of Reigo.

My camera is so dirty, I now have a nice Glamor Shots soft focus going on as we leave, climbing down from Reigo in the dark for nearly an hour before the valley began to fill with early morning light.

The very pretty town of Molinaseca still hasn't woken up when I'm passing through.

Yelling at this insane cat to go back inside made no difference in Ponferrada

The 12 C Knight's Templar castle in Ponferrada.

Plenty of grapes to harvest in the Bierzo wine region. This is just outside Cacabelos, where I was so tired for once I didn't not explore after arriving at the albergue.

Gorgeous morning's walk into Villafranca del Bierzo

Some interesting blue trees at the start of a long walk adjacent the highway leading deeper into the Valcare river valley.

TheValcarce river vallye is dotted with sleepy hamlets. Each one quaint and beautiful, like Vega de Valcarce

Lovely little Las Herrerias where we stayed in a cozy hostel with a delicious dinner.  A restful stop before a steep climb to cross over into Galicia.  I hope I can return to the Valcarce River valley some day. For me, it was one of the pr… — Lovely little Las Herrerias where we stayed in a cozy hostel with a delicious dinner. A restful stop before a steep climb to cross over into Galicia. I hope I can return to the Valcarce River valley some day. For me, it was one of the prettiest areas of the Camino.

Camino Thoughts plus Days 20 - 23 - Villamentero De Campos to Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun to Reliegos

October 24, 2016 in Camino de Santiago, Travel

Well, my app didn't end up working so well and, as it happened, I got more wrapped up in the walk as it went on, which is a good thing. During the second half of the walk , things began to click for me, despite the fact that my body was ready to reach its destination and began to voice big, loud complaints via my right foot and ankle. All my wretched limbs held together though and I hobbled into Santiago with friends on October 7 after 35 days of walking. I'm home now and just beginning to wrap my head around the experience. Did I dream the whole thing?

I'm sprucing up my sketchbook which I will post, along with some more thoughts on the Camino and some practical things I learned. Despite years of researching this trip, there were still things I hadn't thought out that would've helped me before I left. It just goes to show that each person's Camino is a different animal and despite that, we all have a shared journey. It was a horrible and wonderful trip and that's the only way I can think to describe it. Just like a month and a half of real life, there are good and bad and many in between days. I have to imagine that each is valuable, even if I can't see it yet.

This week, though, I will continue to share some images from the 2nd half of The Way.

Carrion de los Condes, passing through the main square before a very long walk through the Meseta

Plenty of food and water...16 k until my stopping point.

The town of Calzadilla de la Cueza and the sign for its municipal albergue seemed to rise from the grass like an oasis. It's a two albergue town and not much else, and in my haste to take off my shoes I managed to pick the albergue WITHOUT the pool.… — The town of Calzadilla de la Cueza and the sign for its municipal albergue seemed to rise from the grass like an oasis. It's a two albergue town and not much else, and in my haste to take off my shoes I managed to pick the albergue WITHOUT the pool.
Plenty of time to think here...this cafe and the view of pilgrims coming over the hill is the only thing to do in this town.

I love these little Spanish buildings. I want to live in every single one.

Not Hobbit Houses!, a sign helpfully explained to passing pilgrims.  These little cave cottages are for storing wine. — Not Hobbit Houses!, a sign helpfully explained to passing pilgrims. These little cave cottages are for storing wine.

I know it looks cute but its cat talons are sharpened and waiting to rip food from pilgrim hands.  This cat ferociously guards Elvis Bar, which is the epicenter of tiny Reliegos, as well as acting as a graffiti-ed notice board for those passing… — I know it looks cute but its cat talons are sharpened and waiting to rip food from pilgrim hands. This cat ferociously guards Elvis Bar, which is the epicenter of tiny Reliegos, as well as acting as a graffiti-ed notice board for those passing through.