Big sky and empty roads leaving Portomarin in the early morning.  This empty highway photo is deceptive--the road might be empty but the Camino is jam packed with pilgrims this morning! — Big sky and empty roads leaving Portomarin in the early morning. This empty highway photo is deceptive--the road might be empty but the Camino is jam packed with pilgrims this morning!

Camino de Santiago - Days 34-36: Portomarin to Palas de Rei to Ribadiso to Pedrouzo

November 29, 2016 in Camino de Santiago, Travel

So many small farming towns along the Camino through Galicia.  The smell of manure is eye-watering and astringentand the weather is moody. — So many small farming towns along the Camino through Galicia. The smell of manure is eye-watering and astringentand the weather is moody.

Peregrinos on horseback scrounging for some food.

The last 100 k makes for a very crowded camino.  It's a different experience than the first 600 kilometers and it requires an attitude adjustment.  Galicia is so beautiful in my opinion, though, it makes the shock of sharing the way a litt… — The last 100 k makes for a very crowded camino. It's a different experience than the first 600 kilometers and it requires an attitude adjustment. Galicia is so beautiful in my opinion, though, it makes the shock of sharing the way a little gentler. I tend to always be trailing behind Mike.

Unpredictable weather = empty cafe chairs.

Romanesque era Santa Maria de Melide XII Century with some Visigoth era treasure.

Misty morning leaving Ribadiso, which was tiny and quaint though I was tired and cranky the night we crashed there in my least favorite hostel of the walk run by a mad woman who adored Mike.

Is this view where I came from or where I'm headed? In retrospect I just can't tell.

Camino de Santiago - Day 24 Lovely Leon

October 31, 2016 in Camino de Santiago, Travel

I really liked Leon and almost immediately upon leaving knew I'd have to return someday. It felt strange to me to look forward to a bigger city after the small towns of the Meseta and yet only have a few hours there to look around. I had a conversation with a woman I walked with almost every day from Astorga on--Natalie from Denmark, about how hard it can be to turn off tourist mode in your brain and just accept pilgrimage mode. In other words, it's in my nature to want to see everything I can--always on the look out for interesting little museums, wanting to see the historic buildings and wander the streets, reading up on the history or the famous foods of the area. Instead, on this journey, you are always simply passing through. The physical path of the Camino is what you get to know so well and you have to learn to ease your grip on all these interesting places you pass through.

Always on the look out for interesting signage - usually easy to spot on the approach into a big city like Leon. For me the walk into Leon didn't seem as drawn out as Burgos. Halfway through the Camino and the idea of needing solitude to think and b… — Always on the look out for interesting signage - usually easy to spot on the approach into a big city like Leon. For me the walk into Leon didn't seem as drawn out as Burgos. Halfway through the Camino and the idea of needing solitude to think and be "present" is much less appealing than good company and conversation to pass the miles.

Just the type of odd city scene I like to paint!

On a Saturday in Leon it seems that there are dozens of weddings and almost as many festivals occurring.

What is happening?! A collision of two festivals results in an impromptu street waltz.

The cathedral closed early and I was so sorry to have missed it, but now I have an extra reason to return to lovely Leon.

The "wet district" is quiet right before tapas hour chimes.

The camino provides...because I visited S. Isidoro, I was provided with a very nice Scottish couple who I'd seen often and they invited me for tapas.  First, I spied on the pilgrim mass which was ending as I arrived.  Each place does it a … — The camino provides...because I visited S. Isidoro, I was provided with a very nice Scottish couple who I'd seen often and they invited me for tapas. First, I spied on the pilgrim mass which was ending as I arrived. Each place does it a little differently, but at the end of mass, the priest invites the pilgrims to stand or approach and offers a blessing. Here, he's also giving a history of the Church as well. My favorite pilgrim's mass was in Estella, where the priest seemed to speak every pilgrim's language and had a holy card for each of us.

As a kid, I used to pray for myself all the time: "Dear God, please give me magic powers." "Dear God, please help me pass my test. I promise I'll pay attention in Church from now on."  I've fallen out of the habit of praying altogether, but on … — As a kid, I used to pray for myself all the time: "Dear God, please give me magic powers." "Dear God, please help me pass my test. I promise I'll pay attention in Church from now on." I've fallen out of the habit of praying altogether, but on the Camino pretty much every holy icon got an earful: "Please God, bless my feet. Please God, direct me to a pharmacy so I can get more Compeed. Please God, keep my foot from breaking. I don't have great insurance anymore and can't afford a podiatrist." Happy to report God listened and my feet are on the mend!

Days 6 and 7 - Uterga to Lorca and a rest day in Estella

September 08, 2016 in Camino de Santiago, Travel

I am suffering from muchas ampollas. After a hard hot days walk with a lot of pain I stopped in the tiny village of Lorca for the night then hobbled a couple hours the next morning to lovely Estella where I booked a room all to myself for rest and foot care. It's been beautiful scenery though and very nice people around every bend in the road.

Early morning hang gliders (?) outside Uterga

always grateful to see an obvious Camino sign to guide the way

The queen's bridge, built in the 11th C to help pilgrims across the deep river

Walking through vineyards and Oliver groves today

The pretty and very unbaked hill town of Cirauqui

The Roman road remains along this not of the Camino

This morning I made it to Estella, a short day so I can rest my feet. I e made it about 71 miles. 411 to go! Estella is small but ver picturesque. Perfect place for a break.

Out of Lorca, bypassed by a dog on a donkey

But I caught up. Note the shell on the donkey... They are in pilgrimage too!

10th C ermita de San Miguel Arcángel .... Hermitage and pilgrim hospital

Arrived in Estella to find a farmers market outside my door.... Cooking in tonight

Day 4 and 5 - Zubiri to Pamplona to Uterga

September 08, 2016 in Travel, Camino de Santiago

Two rough days with blisters beginning to develop but the pain was dulled by the beautiful Navarra region.

Started in St Jean with 482 miles to walk to Santiago. At the end of day five I have 429.5 to go

Tortilla, orange soda sand new friend at Zuriáin cafe

The alterpiece at Iglesia de San Esteban

Hemingway hideout on the back of Cafe Irunia in Pamplona

day five, free of the city and headed over that hill. Hot and dry

Made it to the top! Alto del Perdón and the monuments peregrino

The long hot walk down to Uterga, my end point for today

Relaxing in Casa Baztán, a relaxing little albergue

Day 3 - Roncesvalles to Zubiri

September 05, 2016 in Camino de Santiago, Travel

A long long day owing to sore muscles and fatigue from the last couple days. But a beautiful real through woods and farmland at dawn, passing through Burguete, one of Hemingway's favorite towns.

Lessons learned from from the long hot walk into Zubiri in the afternoon:

take shoes and socks off at least once during the walk; use every font to refill water bottles; lots of snacks especially when you start to zone out during the last five km.