Travel

Days 6 and 7 - Uterga to Lorca and a rest day in Estella

I am suffering from muchas ampollas. After a hard hot days walk with a lot of pain I stopped in the tiny village of Lorca for the night then hobbled a couple hours the next morning to lovely Estella where I booked a room all to myself for rest and foot care. It's been beautiful scenery though and very nice people around every bend in the road. 

Early morning hang gliders (?) outside Uterga

Early morning hang gliders (?) outside Uterga

always grateful to see an obvious Camino sign to guide the way  

always grateful to see an obvious Camino sign to guide the way  

Walking through Puente La Reins

Walking through Puente La Reins

The queen's bridge, built in the 11th C to help pilgrims across the deep river

The queen's bridge, built in the 11th C to help pilgrims across the deep river

Walking through vineyards and Oliver groves today

Walking through vineyards and Oliver groves today

The pretty and very unbaked hill town of Cirauqui

The pretty and very unbaked hill town of Cirauqui

The Roman road remains along this not of the Camino  

The Roman road remains along this not of the Camino  

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This morning I made it to Estella, a short day so I can rest my feet.  I e made it about 71 miles. 411 to go! Estella is small but ver picturesque. Perfect place for a break.  

 

Out of Lorca, bypassed by a dog on a donkey   

Out of Lorca, bypassed by a dog on a donkey   

But I caught up. Note the shell on the donkey... They are in pilgrimage too! 

But I caught up. Note the shell on the donkey... They are in pilgrimage too! 

10th C ermita de San Miguel Arcángel .... Hermitage and pilgrim hospital

10th C ermita de San Miguel Arcángel .... Hermitage and pilgrim hospital

Arrived in Estella to find a farmers market outside my door.... Cooking in tonight

Arrived in Estella to find a farmers market outside my door.... Cooking in tonight

Rio Ega

Rio Ega

Cafe chairs in Plaza Fueros

Cafe chairs in Plaza Fueros

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Camino markers and Camino feet

Camino markers and Camino feet

Self care

Self care

Day 4 and 5 - Zubiri to Pamplona to Uterga

Two rough days with blisters beginning to develop but the pain was dulled by the beautiful Navarra region.  

Started in St Jean with 482 miles to walk to Santiago. At the end of day five I have 429.5 to go

 

Puente de la Rabia leaving Zubiri

Puente de la Rabia leaving Zubiri

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Tortilla, orange soda sand new friend at Zuriáin cafe

Tortilla, orange soda sand new friend at Zuriáin cafe

The alterpiece at Iglesia de San Esteban

The alterpiece at Iglesia de San Esteban

Hemingway hideout on the back of Cafe Irunia in Pamplona

Hemingway hideout on the back of Cafe Irunia in Pamplona

day five, free of the city and headed over that hill. Hot and dry  

day five, free of the city and headed over that hill. Hot and dry  

Beautiful skies

Beautiful skies

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Made it to the top! Alto del Perdón and the monuments peregrino  

Made it to the top! Alto del Perdón and the monuments peregrino  

The long hot walk down to Uterga, my end point for today

The long hot walk down to Uterga, my end point for today

Relaxing in Casa Baztán, a relaxing little albergue  

Relaxing in Casa Baztán, a relaxing little albergue  

Day 3 - Roncesvalles to Zubiri

A long long day owing to sore muscles and fatigue from the last couple days. But a beautiful real through woods and farmland at dawn, passing through Burguete, one of Hemingway's favorite towns.  

 

Lessons learned from from the  long hot walk into Zubiri in the afternoon:

take shoes and socks off at least once during the walk; use every font to refill water bottles; lots of snacks especially when you start to zone out during the last five km.  

Papa was here... Burguete  

Papa was here... Burguete  

Basque style

Basque style

Looking back

Looking back

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Zubiri cafe

Zubiri cafe

Vintage Navigli Snaps

I love collecting found snaps, making up a tale to go along with them.  So I'll kick off the first blog entry of my re-vamped website with something I've been saving--a vintage store find in the Navigli district of Milan last September.  The navigli were the city's medieval canals, and though much of the system disappeared beginning in the 1930s through 60s, two remain - Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese. No longer with provenance nor destination, they are now the center and namesake of a pretty cool neighborhood. 

The day we visited, a strange scene was unfolding in the canal, attracting a small Saturday morning audience. Workmen waded into the stagnant water netting up all the small remaining fish.  To rescue them from the receding water level? In anticipation of some city rehabilitation project? We weren't sure. In some spots the water was so low, what we imagined were pleasure barges with bars were stuck, suspended in some Friday night past. 

I wandered into a small antique shop across Ripa di Porta Ticinese. Inside, a drawn sign indicated no pictures allowed.  As I turned to leave, I was drawn to the illustration on the cover of a small negative holder. Inside were dozens of medium format negatives --mostly family vacation portraits by the sea. 

Ten Euro and several months later, I look at them and imagine a big Italian family living in an apartment with a view of the naviglio.  And one July or August they escape the city heat for the sea.  Momentarily trading their inner city canal for a wider, saltier stretch of water. It's making me long for summer on a frigid New York night.