Camino de Santiago: Days 25 - 27 - Leon to Villadangos del Paramo to Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

Leaving Leon, I passed the beautiful Leon Parador, a 12th C pilgrim's hospital (hostal) spruced up to become the headquarters of the Knights Order of Santiago. 

Leaving Leon, I passed the beautiful Leon Parador, a 12th C pilgrim's hospital (hostal) spruced up to become the headquarters of the Knights Order of Santiago. 

In front of the parador, another statue of a weary pilgrim.

In front of the parador, another statue of a weary pilgrim.

Some interesting farm contraptions--my only photo of the day into Villadangos. It was a highway adjacent walk through pit stops for truckers.  Nothing going on in Villadangos but good company and a delicious dinner at the albergue with new friends.

Some interesting farm contraptions--my only photo of the day into Villadangos. It was a highway adjacent walk through pit stops for truckers.  Nothing going on in Villadangos but good company and a delicious dinner at the albergue with new friends.

Sunrise through corn stalks. It's actually quite creepy to walk through corn during the pre-dawn. believe it or not.

Sunrise through corn stalks. It's actually quite creepy to walk through corn during the pre-dawn. believe it or not.

I only passed through, but really liked the town of Hospital de Orbigo. This long bridge dates from the 13th C. Legend has it that a knight was thwarted in love. To restore his honor he vowed to defend that bridge against anyone who would challenge him.  In 1434, Knights arrived from all over Europe to joust against the heartsick Don Suero.  300 knights were defeated, and I guess that was the magic number because a victorious Don Suero then journeyed to Santiago in thanks for being cured of his heartbreak.

I only passed through, but really liked the town of Hospital de Orbigo. This long bridge dates from the 13th C. Legend has it that a knight was thwarted in love. To restore his honor he vowed to defend that bridge against anyone who would challenge him.  In 1434, Knights arrived from all over Europe to joust against the heartsick Don Suero.  300 knights were defeated, and I guess that was the magic number because a victorious Don Suero then journeyed to Santiago in thanks for being cured of his heartbreak.

Yellow arrows mark the dusty path toward Astorga.

Yellow arrows mark the dusty path toward Astorga.

Casa de los Dioses, which I anticipated because it is so beloved by my guidebook and favorite Camino forum.  Entirely donativo, sustenance, good vibes and a shady place to rest is offered. 

Casa de los Dioses, which I anticipated because it is so beloved by my guidebook and favorite Camino forum.  Entirely donativo, sustenance, good vibes and a shady place to rest is offered. 

After a long day, weary pilgrims (including me!) on the outskirts of Astorga.  Look at that sky!

After a long day, weary pilgrims (including me!) on the outskirts of Astorga.  Look at that sky!

Cannot resist the handpainted signs.  Or patatas fritas for that matter.

Cannot resist the handpainted signs.  Or patatas fritas for that matter.

At this point in the trip, I can handled the blisters, but my foot is killing me and I feel like I've aged 30 years. I really enjoyed my meal Plaza Major, though, and watching people gather to see the clock at the top of the Ayuntamiento chime -- it has little characters like the Glockenspiel in Munich!

At this point in the trip, I can handled the blisters, but my foot is killing me and I feel like I've aged 30 years. I really enjoyed my meal Plaza Major, though, and watching people gather to see the clock at the top of the Ayuntamiento chime -- it has little characters like the Glockenspiel in Munich!

Astorga was lovely. With a beautiful cathedral too.

Astorga was lovely. With a beautiful cathedral too.

I like comparing the grandiose cathedrals with the tiny hermitages I'd pass along the way. Even though it was sunrise, this medieval chapel, Ecce Homo, was manned by a friendly elderly woman who tried to tell me the story of the chapel's well. From what I gathered a miracle happened, but my Spanish wasn't up to the task of sorting out what type of miracle. So I blessed myself and looked as the display of antique photos of parishoners past.  As I was leaving the tiny woman mimed my putting on my backpack and trudging away.  She must see a lot of us droopy pilgrims.

I like comparing the grandiose cathedrals with the tiny hermitages I'd pass along the way. Even though it was sunrise, this medieval chapel, Ecce Homo, was manned by a friendly elderly woman who tried to tell me the story of the chapel's well. From what I gathered a miracle happened, but my Spanish wasn't up to the task of sorting out what type of miracle. So I blessed myself and looked as the display of antique photos of parishoners past.  As I was leaving the tiny woman mimed my putting on my backpack and trudging away.  She must see a lot of us droopy pilgrims.

I thought the walk toward Rabanal was stunning. Sunny with walled paths, then later, a forest trail. I came to love the entrance to small towns. 

I thought the walk toward Rabanal was stunning. Sunny with walled paths, then later, a forest trail. I came to love the entrance to small towns. 

The Camino "color scheme" of yellow arrows against a blue background is truly accurate.  To me the Camino is yellow against blue.

The Camino "color scheme" of yellow arrows against a blue background is truly accurate.  To me the Camino is yellow against blue.

Besides Elvis Bar in Religos, Cowboy Bar in the sleepy Maragato town El Ganso was a favorite.  The inside is like the prop department of a spaghetti western

Besides Elvis Bar in Religos, Cowboy Bar in the sleepy Maragato town El Ganso was a favorite.  The inside is like the prop department of a spaghetti western

Rabanal in silohuette.

Rabanal in silohuette.